Wind-Waves in Oceans

This research monograph deals with the study of wave phenomena caused by winds in the world's oceans. Particular attention is paid to modern developments that take into account the propagation of ocean waves at global distances and their interaction with the sea bottom, ocean currents and the ice cover. With this book the author provides the first methodical presentation of the generation, evolution and propagation of wind-induced ocean waves.

Texte du rabat

The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten­ tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to­ date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.

Contenu

1 General Problem Formulation of Wind Wave Modelling in a Non-Uniform Ocean.- 2 Mathematical Simulation of Wave Propagation at Global Distances.- 3 Numerical Implementation of the Wave Energy Balance Equation.- 4 Study of Physical Mechanisms Forming the Wind Wave Energy Spectrum in Deep Water.- 5 Wave Evolution in Non-uniform Currents in Deep Water.- 6 Wave Transformation in Shallow Water.- 7 Wave Transformation in Ice-Covered Water.- 8 Conclusion.