BARBARIAN DAYS

A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

Zusatztext How many ways can you describe a wave? You'll never get tired of watching Finnegan do it. A staff writer at The New Yorker ! he leads a counterlife as an obsessive surfer! traveling around the world! throwing his vulnerable! merely human body into line after line of waves in search of transient moments of grace . . . It's an occupation that has never before been described with this tenderness and deftness Informationen zum Autor WILLIAM FINNEGAN is the author of Cold New World ! A Complicated War ! Dateline Soweto ! and Crossing the Line . He has twice been a National Magazine Award finalist and has won numerous journalism awards! including two Overseas Press Club awards since 2009. A staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987! he lives in Manhattan. Klappentext 'Finnegan's triumph! and surfing's gain! is that he did indeed step beyond surf fever's constricting bubble to forge a decorated journalistic career with the New Yorker and deliver this mind-altering memoir' TIM BAKER Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees! it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction! a mental and physical study! a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific! Australia! Asia! Africa! Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves! he considers the intense relationship formed between man! board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story! a social history! an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer Zusammenfassung WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016 Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees! it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction! a mental and physical study! a passionate way of life. William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific! Australia! Asia! Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves! he considers the intense relationship formed between man! board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story! a social history! an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. ...

How many ways can you describe a wave? You'll never get tired of watching Finnegan do it. A staff writer at The New Yorker, he leads a counterlife as an obsessive surfer, traveling around the world, throwing his vulnerable, merely human body into line after line of waves in search of transient moments of grace . . . It's an occupation that has never before been described with this tenderness and deftness

Préface
A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

Auteur
WILLIAM FINNEGAN is the author of Cold New World, A Complicated War, Dateline Soweto, and Crossing the Line. He has twice been a National Magazine Award finalist and has won numerous journalism awards, including two Overseas Press Club awards since 2009. A staff writer at The New Yorker since 1987, he lives in Manhattan.

Texte du rabat

'Finnegan's triumph, and surfing's gain, is that he did indeed step beyond surf fever's constricting bubble to forge a decorated journalistic career with the New Yorker and deliver this mind-altering memoir' TIM BAKER

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.
William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa, Peru and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.
Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Résumé

WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.