Artistic Dress at Liberty & Co

Auteur

Anna Buruma trained as a theatre designer and had a successful career as a costume designer in television and film before completing an MA, specializing in the History of Dress at the Courtauld Institute of Art. Buruma managed and catalogued the textile archive at Liberty from 1996 to 2022. From 2005 she has also been a part-time museum curator at Central Saint Martins.

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Exploring how the name of Liberty became synonymous with Aestheticism and the English Art Nouveau Movement, and its role in shaping contemporary late nineteenth and early twentieth century Artistic Dress.

Liberty’s dress department opened in 1884, headed by Edward William Godwin, an architect with a multi-faceted career and an important figure in the Aesthetic Movement. Following the women’s rights movement of the 1840s, women fought against restrictive clothing such as tight-laced corsets, heavy petticoats and too tight shoes, which were harmful to their health and chose instead to dress in looser fitting dresses, coloured with natural dyes and ornamented with embroidery and needlework, otherwise known as Aesthetic dress. Liberty was at the forefront of Aestheticism with their recognisable soft drapeable silks, transparent textiles and fabrics imported from Central Asia and the Middle East. Their consumers were an eclectic mix of women who wanted to dress artistically and stand out from the crowd. Liberty was the chosen resort of the artistic shopper.

With archival materials and previously unpublished pattern books, Anna Buruma navigates Liberty’s role in Artistic dress. Examining how their idiosyncratic fashions of Greek and Roman style evening dress and medieval tea gowns translated into late nineteenth and early twentieth century fashionable dress. Liberty sustained their popularity through good taste and willingness to expand into new markets. From their flourishing commitment to Aestheticism to becoming a trail-blazer for the Art Nouveau movement which would emerge from it, Artistic Dress at Liberty & Co: The Early Years is the go-to source for the early history of Liberty’s dress department.